How to Fix Squeaky Hardwood Floors

What causes hardwood floors to squeak?

Before you start drilling screws into your floor, it helps to understand why it's squeaking in the first place. The fix depends entirely on the cause.

The most common culprit is seasonal wood movement. When humidity drops in winter, hardwood shrinks slightly. This creates tiny gaps between boards and loosens the grip around nails. When you walk across the floor, the wood moves against those nails or rubs against neighboring boards. That friction creates the squeak.

Another frequent cause is gaps between your subfloor and the joists underneath. Over time, subfloor panels can warp or pull away from the framing. When you step on these spots, the subfloor flexes downward and snaps back up. You're essentially hearing the wood slapping against the joist.

Sometimes the problem goes back to installation. If the original flooring crew used nails instead of screws for the subfloor, or didn't use enough fasteners, you'll develop squeaks as the house settles. Subfloor panels that weren't properly glued down will also work loose over time.

The good news is that most squeaks are fixable without tearing up your floors. The key is matching the right solution to the actual problem.

Quick fixes you can try today

If you're dealing with minor squeaks and want to try something before committing to a bigger repair, there are a couple of low-effort options worth testing.

Talcum powder or powdered graphite can work surprisingly well for friction squeaks. These are the squeaks caused by two boards rubbing against each other, not subfloor issues. Sprinkle the powder over the squeaky area and work it into the seams between boards using a soft brush or your foot. The lubricant reduces friction and can quiet things down.

This isn't a permanent fix, but it can buy you time or solve the problem entirely if the squeak is minor. You may need to reapply every few months, especially after humid summers when the wood swells and pushes the powder out.

Some people use WD-40, but I'd be careful with that on hardwood. It can stain certain finishes and attracts dust over time. If you go this route, test it in an inconspicuous spot first.

Before trying any repair, spend a few minutes walking the floor slowly to pinpoint exactly where the squeaks are. Have someone else walk while you listen. Mark the spots with painter's tape. Knowing the precise locations makes every repair method more effective.

How to fix squeaky floors from above

Most homeowners don't have access to their floor joists from below. If you're working from the top side, your best option is a Counter-Snap kit, sold under brand names like Squeeeeek-No-More or O'Berry's.

These kits use specially designed screws that you drive through your hardwood and into the joist below. Once the screw is set, you snap off the head at a scored breakpoint just below the wood surface. The result is a screw that's hidden beneath the floor, with only a tiny hole to fill.

Here's the process. First, locate your floor joists. They're typically 16 inches apart, and you can find them with a stud finder or by tapping along the floor and listening for the solid thunk of wood versus the hollow sound between joists. The squeaky board needs to be screwed into a joist, not just the subfloor.

Position the kit's fixture over the squeak location, aligned with the joist. Drive the screw through the fixture until it's tight. Then rock the fixture sideways to snap off the screw head. Fill the small hole with color-matched wood filler, let it dry, and buff smooth.

For floors with a thick finish, you may need to pre-drill a pilot hole to prevent the wood from splitting. Take your time with the first couple screws until you get the feel for it.

If you don't want to buy a kit, you can achieve similar results with trim-head screws driven at an angle. Drill a pilot hole, drive the screw until the head is just below the surface, and fill with wood filler. It's not as clean as the breakaway method, but it works.

How to fix squeaky floors from below

If you have an unfinished basement or crawl space, you're in luck. Working from below is easier and leaves no marks on your hardwood.

Start by having someone walk on the floor above while you watch from below with a flashlight. Look for movement in the subfloor. You'll often see gaps between the subfloor and joists, or panels that flex when weight hits them.

For small gaps, wooden shims work well. Apply carpenter's glue to a shim and tap it gently into the gap between the subfloor and joist. Don't force it or you'll push the floor up and create a hump. You just want to fill the void so there's no room for movement.

For larger problem areas, consider a product like Squeak-Ender. These are metal brackets that screw to the joist and use a threaded rod to pull the subfloor tight against the framing. They're especially useful when you have multiple squeaks along the same joist.

If you notice that the subfloor itself is damaged, warped, or shows signs of water damage, you may be looking at a bigger project. Spot repairs are possible, but widespread subfloor issues often require professional assessment. If your inspection reveals significant wear or damage, it might be time to evaluate the entire floor system. Learn about our hardwood floor repair and refinishing services to understand your options.

Fixing squeaky stairs

Stairs squeak for the same basic reasons as floors, but the repair approach is different because of how stairs are built.

Each stair has a tread (the horizontal part you step on) and a riser (the vertical part). Squeaks usually happen where the tread meets the riser, or where the tread connects to the stringers on either side.

If you can access the back of your stairs (from a closet or basement), the fix is straightforward. Apply wood glue to the joint and drive screws through the back of the riser into the tread. Adding small wood blocks glued and screwed into the corner joints provides extra reinforcement.

If your stairs are enclosed and you can only work from above, you'll need to use countersunk screws or finish nails driven through the tread into the riser below. Pre-drill to avoid splitting, drive the fastener, and fill the hole. On carpeted stairs, you can pull back the carpet, make your repairs, and re-secure the carpet when done.

Stair squeaks can be trickier to eliminate completely because of the constant stress from foot traffic. Sometimes a combination of glue, screws, and shims is needed to fully quiet things down.

Preventing future squeaks

Once you've fixed your squeaky floors, a little maintenance can prevent the problem from coming back.

Humidity control makes the biggest difference. Wood floors are happiest between 40% and 60% relative humidity. In New Jersey, that means running a humidifier in winter when your heating system dries out the air, and using AC or a dehumidifier in summer when things get muggy. Consistent humidity means less wood movement, which means fewer squeaks.

If you're having new floors installed or refinishing existing ones, talk to your contractor about using screws rather than nails for the subfloor. Screws hold their grip much better over time. Proper acclimation of the flooring material before installation also helps. Wood that's installed before it adjusts to your home's humidity level will move more aggressively in the first year.

Check your floors periodically, especially in high-traffic areas and around exterior walls where humidity swings are more extreme. Catching a small squeak early is easier than dealing with a floor that's been flexing for years.

When to call a professional

DIY fixes work great for isolated squeaks, but some situations call for professional help.

If squeaks have developed across large sections of your floor, you're probably dealing with a systemic problem like subfloor failure, joist issues, or widespread fastener loosening. Fixing each squeak individually would be tedious and might not address the root cause.

Floors that feel bouncy or spongy when you walk on them suggest structural concerns beyond simple squeaks. The same goes for squeaks that appeared after water damage, flooding, or a plumbing leak. Water-damaged subfloors can develop rot that compromises the entire floor system.

If your hardwood is older and you're considering whether repairs make sense versus starting fresh, that's another conversation worth having with a flooring professional. Sometimes refinishing and repairing makes sense. Sometimes replacement is the smarter investment. We put together a guide on deciding between refinishing and replacing hardwood floors that walks through the factors to consider.

For homeowners in Monmouth, Ocean, and Middlesex counties, Summit Home Services handles hardwood floor repairs and refinishing. If your squeaky floors have you concerned about what's happening underneath, reach out for a free assessment.

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